General RV Appliance FAQs
How do I know if an RV appliance will fit my existing opening?
Measure the cutout dimensions (rough opening height, width, and depth) rather than the front exterior trim of your existing unit. Most RV appliances follow industry-standard cutout sizes—such as 14" x 14" roof openings for AC units or standard 6-gallon / 10-gallon cutouts for water heaters—making direct replacements straightforward. Always verify electrical requirements (12V DC vs. 115V AC) and gas line entry points before purchasing.
What is the difference between 12V DC and 115V AC RV appliances?
12V DC Appliances: Power directly from your RV’s house battery system or solar setup. They are designed for off-grid boondocking and continuous operation while traveling without running a generator.
115V AC Appliances: Require high-voltage shore power (30-amp or 50-amp campsite connection) or an onboard generator/inverter to operate.
What size RV air conditioner BTU rating do I need for my rig?
13,500 BTU: Ideal for travel trailers and motorhomes up to 24 feet (~200 sq. ft.), or as a secondary bedroom unit on larger 50-amp rigs.
15,000 BTU: Best for mid-to-large rigs between 28 and 34 feet (200–300 sq. ft.) needing extra cooling power in high heat.
18,000 BTU: Recommended for large travel trailers, fifth wheels, and motorhomes over 32 feet (300+ sq. ft.) or rigs with multiple slide-outs requiring maximum single-unit airflow.
Will an 18,000 BTU rooftop AC run on a 2,000-watt portable generator?
Modern variable-speed inverter AC units (like the Furrion Chill Cube series) draw significantly lower starting amperage and can run on a 2,000W generator. However, traditional fixed-speed 13.5k or 15k BTU compressors typically require a 3,000W+ generator or an added soft-start kit to handle initial startup power surges.
Should I choose a tankless (on-demand) or traditional tank RV water heater?
Tankless Water Heaters: Provide continuous, endless hot water on demand using propane. They save weight, eliminate waiting for tanks to reheat, and operate efficiently, but require a steady water flow rate to cycle on.
Tank Water Heaters (6 or 10 Gallon): Store pre-heated water using gas, electric (115V), or dual-fuel modes. They are highly reliable, offer predictable water temperatures, and operate smoothly even with low water pressure.
Can I upgrade from a 6-gallon water heater to a tankless unit?
Yes. Most tankless RV water heaters are engineered to fit directly into standard 6-gallon rough cutouts (approx. 12.5" H x 12.5" W). Retrofit door kits are available to cover wider existing openings cleanly.
What is the difference between propane (LPG) and induction RV cooktops?
Propane Cooktops: Connect to your RV’s LP gas system, allowing off-grid cooking anywhere without consuming house battery power.
Induction Cooktops: Require 115V AC power (shore power or high-capacity inverter system). They heat cookware faster, produce minimal ambient cabin heat, and feature smooth glass surfaces that are easy to clean and lock down safely during transit.
Do RV cooktops require special gas pressure regulators?
Yes. RV propane cooktops are designed to operate on low-pressure LP gas (11 inches water column / 0.4 psi). They must be connected down-line from your RV’s main dual-stage propane regulator.
What is the difference between a 12V compressor fridge and a 2-way absorption fridge?
12V Compressor Refrigerators: Cool down rapidly, hold stable temperatures in extreme ambient heat (100°F+), offer larger interior storage capacities, and run efficiently off solar/battery setups.
2-Way Absorption Refrigerators: Run on either Propane (LP) or 115V AC electricity. They consume zero battery power when operating on gas, making them a classic choice for dry camping without solar power.
Can I replace my absorption refrigerator with a 12V compressor model?
Yes. 12V compressor refrigerators are the preferred modern upgrade for RV retrofits. You simply cap off the old LP gas line, seal the external vent, and connect the unit directly to your RV’s existing 12V DC fused wiring circuit.